03 Sep Trip Report – Wild Kenya: Great Rift Valley Lakes Birding Tour, 13th August 2024
Tour Leader: Samuel Muriuki
Guests: Ariane Lambet & Lindelo
Overview:
This tour focused on three distinct Rift Valley lakes: Lake Baringo, Lake Nakuru, and Lake Elementaita. Each lake offers a unique ecosystem, varying in size, water quality, and surrounding habitats, resulting in diverse bird and wildlife populations.
Lake Baringo:
Surrounded by acacia and Commiphora species, Lake Baringo’s immediate vicinity features limited undergrowth. However, as elevation increases, a rich tapestry of vegetation emerges, creating a complex layered habitat with diverse understory vegetation.
Lake Nakuru:
The landscape around Lake Nakuru is dominated by Tarchonanthus bushlands on the slopes, plateau, and hills. The eastern part of the national park is characterized by Acacia gerrardi woodlands, while the western section features distinctive yellow-backed acacia.
Lake Elementaita:
In contrast to the other two lakes, Lake Elementaita presents a more open landscape. The area is dotted with acacia trees and thick patches of undergrowth, but generally maintains an expansive feel with extensive shorelines, providing excellent visibility for birdwatching.
This diverse range of habitats across the three lakes creates an ideal setting for observing a wide variety of bird species, each adapted to their specific ecological niches within the Great Rift Valley ecosystem.
Day 1: Lake Baringo (August 13)
Morning Journey:
We departed from Tribe Hotel in Nairobi at 6:00 AM, heading towards Lake Baringo. Our journey took approximately 5 hours, with a single stopover in Naivasha for refreshments. The route took us through small towns such as Kabarak, Mogotio, Marigat, and Kambi ya Samaki.
Arrival and Initial Sightings:
En route to our accommodation at Tumbili, we began our birding adventure, spotting several interesting species:
- Lesser Masked Weaver
- Spotted Palm Thrush
- White-browed Robin-Chat
By the time we reached the hotel compound, our species count had already reached an impressive 30.
Lunch and Rest:
After a brief orientation for Ariane and Lindelo, we enjoyed a welcome lunch provided by Titus and his team. This respite was much appreciated after our long journey. During the midday heat, our guests took the opportunity to swim and acclimate to their new surroundings.
Afternoon Birding Session:
At 3:30 PM, as temperatures began to cool, we embarked on our afternoon birding session. Guided by Titus, who showed us prime locations for various species, we observed approximately 60 different birds, including:
- Three-banded Courser
- Slender-tailed Nightjar (multiple sightings)
- Golden-backed Weaver
Highlight of the Day:
The crowning moment of our first day was spotting a Greyish Eagle-Owl perched on an acacia tree at the base of a cliff. This sighting was undoubtedly our “bird of the day.”
As darkness fell, we concluded our session, agreeing to reconvene the following day for a boat ride.
Day 2: Lake Baringo & Lake Nakuru National Park (August 14)
Morning Boat Ride at Lake Baringo
We met Ariane and Lindelo at 7:00 AM for a boat ride organised by Titus. This enjoyable excursion allowed us to observe several water birds, including:
- Cape Teal
- Egyptian Goose
- White-faced Whistling Duck
- Purple Heron
- Striated Heron
- Yellow-billed Stork
- Grey Heron
- African Darter
After the boat ride, we returned to the lodge for breakfast.
Journey to Lake Nakuru
En route to Nakuru, we stopped at the Equator Crossing in Mogotio. Here, Ariane and Lindelo purchased souvenirs, and we all enjoyed an intriguing demonstration of the Coriolis effect, showcasing the difference in water movement between the Northern and Southern hemispheres.
Lake Nakuru National Park
Upon entering the park, we immediately began our birding activities. Highlights included:
- Mammal Sightings:
- Zebras, buffalos, and warthogs grazing near man-made ponds
- Bird Species:
- Zitting Cisticolas and Rattling Cisticolas calling from the long grass
- Red-billed Oxpeckers on larger mammals
- Sunbirds: Eastern Violet-backed, Marico, Scarlet-chested, and Variable
- Long-crested Eagle spotted by Ariane
- Rüppell’s Starlings
- African Fish Eagles
- Lesser Swamp Warbler, Tawny-flanked Prinia, Purple Grenadier, Rüppell’s Robin-chat
- Lake Shore:
- Cormorants and African Darters
- Great White Pelicans and Pink-Backed Pelicans
Afternoon Session
After lunch and a brief rest at the lodge, we set out earlier than planned due to approaching rain clouds. Notable sightings included:
- Predator Encounters:
- A pride of six lionesses interacting with warthogs and impalas
- A lone lioness feeding on a young warthog
- A spotted hyena observing the lion activity
- A leopard sighting (highlight of the day)
- Bird Species:
- Black-headed Oriole
- Rattling Cisticola, Pectoral-patch Cisticola, Zitting Cisticola
- Reichenow’s Seedeater
- Lake Shore Birds:
- Grey Crowned Cranes
- Yellow-billed Ducks and Cape Teals
- Little Grebes
- Lesser Flamingos
- Pink-Backed Pelicans and Great White Pelicans
- Common Sandpipers, Kittlitz’s Plover, and Black-winged Stilts
- Rhino Sightings:
- Two white rhinos with a young one
- Two black rhinos
The day concluded with the exceptional leopard sighting, providing a perfect end to a successful and diverse day of birding and wildlife observation.
Day 3: Lake Elementaita (August 15)
We began the day with a hearty breakfast before checking out of the lodge. On our drive to the park gate, we enjoyed some final birdwatching, where we spotted several species, including:
- African Fish Eagle: We observed one up close, perched in a tree beside the road, feeding on a large fish — a memorable experience for both Ariane and Lindelo.
We exited the park around 10 am and drove directly to Lake Elementaita. After paying the park fees, we left Steve at the entrance and started our guided trek along the lakeshore on foot. The lake offered a breathtaking sight:
- A large flock of Lesser Flamingos — more numerous than at Lake Nakuru, likely due to the lower water level that exposed more of the shoreline.
- We took numerous photos of the flamingos, both perched and in flight. Lindelo, particularly captivated by the scenery, requested a few extra minutes to take in the view. We spent about an hour and a half at Lake Elementaita.
After our visit, we headed straight to Java House at Buffalo Mall, Naivasha, for lunch. With three days of adventure behind us, it was time to make our way back home.
Upon reaching the Tribe Hotel, saying goodbye to Ariane and Lindelo was difficult. Lindelo gave us a heartfelt hug, and Ariane generously tipped us. This marked the end of our amazing three-day journey.
Conclusion:
Our three-day birding adventure through the Great Rift Valley Lakes — Lake Baringo, Lake Nakuru, and Lake Elementaita — provided an incredible experience for all participants. We observed a diverse range of bird species and other wildlife, from the serene water birds of Lake Baringo to the large flocks of flamingos at Lake Elementaita and the rich avian life at Lake Nakuru.
Each lake offered a unique habitat and birding experience:
- Lake Baringo featured acacia and Commiphora woodlands, where we encountered species like the Greyish Eagle-Owl and Golden-backed Weaver.
- Lake Nakuru showcased diverse landscapes from Tarchonanthus bushlands to acacia woodlands, where we saw majestic raptors like the Long-crested Eagle and aquatic gatherings of cormorants and pelicans.
- Lake Elementaita provided open shorelines with stunning displays of Lesser Flamingos and a wide variety of waterbirds.
The highlights were numerous, from the intimate moments with a pride of lions in Lake Nakuru to the rare sighting of a leopard at dusk. The scenic views, engaging wildlife, and shared joy of discovery made this trip memorable for everyone involved. Ariane and Lindelo’s enthusiasm and curiosity enriched the journey, turning every moment into an unforgettable experience.
As we concluded our journey back at the Tribe Hotel, it was hard to say goodbye, but the memories we created will stay with us for a lifetime. This tour not only deepened our appreciation for Kenya’s rich birdlife and ecosystems but also reminded us of the importance of conserving these natural wonders for future generations.
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